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Crankset?

Discussion on drive trains: Campy, Shimano, SRAM, etc.

Crankset?

Postby krogers on Tue Aug 28, 2007 7:09 am

My Cannondale has a TruVatiV Elita SL, 39/53 crankset. I have been less then thrilled with my climbing performance over the last few weeks, and think its time to swap to a triple.

Can I just swap out the doubple that i have for a triple?

And I know that many would say replace with a Shimamo component, but I am not necessarily looking to better my component, just gain some effeciancy on the hills, so was thinking of replaceing with the same brand.

Thoughts? Suggestions?

Thanks in advance!!!!
Kim
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Postby hairycurt on Tue Aug 28, 2007 2:11 pm

I can sell you my old Shimano Ultegra triple setup that has everything (the installer will probably recommend a new chain and cables) you need for $300. Bicycle Planet will install it for around $100.

To go to a triple you will need to replace your front derailer and, most likely, left shifter. (A good LBS might have the left shifter you need but you are likely going to have to buy a full new set of shifters. That alone will probably cover 90% of the cost of my used triple.) Also, if your rear derailer is the standard double model like most double ring setups, you will need to replace your rear derailer with a derailer made for a triple. (It needs to eat more chain going from 30x15 to 52x23.) The long and short of it is, the only thing you won't be replacing is your rear cassette. (Mine old setup will include one anyway, because I don't use 9 speed anymore.)

If you don't want used Shimano Ultegra, why not go to a compact crank or, even cheaper, keep the 39/52 but go with a Shimano Mountain Bike rear cassette. One of the local guys I know uses a 39/53 and a rear cog set with a 32 large cog and 11 small cog. This setup probably needs the rear derailer made for a triple configuration but new shifters will not be needed. (This will probably cost $200 or so for a new chain, new rear derailer and new cogs.)

I went from a triple to a compact and since I had to basically replace the drivetrain I also went from 9 speed to 10 speed.

PM me if you want to take me up on the offer to get my old triple. (I replaced the chainrings and rear cogs about 8 months before I swapped them out, so they have less than 7k miles on them.)

=- Hairy Curt
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Postby krogers on Tue Aug 28, 2007 4:18 pm

A few of us were discussing some options today in an email thread and suggested I swap out my small ring for an even smaller one...going from a 39 to a 34 or 32??
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Postby michelem on Tue Aug 28, 2007 5:37 pm

This is what Matt from Bicycle Planet sent to me a while ago:

"Generally a 30t works fine but the bail out gearing with the 26tooth will let you ride up anything paved that a car can drive up and not tire your legs out. With 8 usable gears, the 26t tends to involve less double shifting between the middle and small ring since the gearing starts out so low--that can make climbing hills easier since all the shifting needed while climbing can be done with the rear shifter with even spacing between the gear changes. "

I haven't (yet) gone with this option, but I'm considering it . . .
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Postby hairycurt on Tue Aug 28, 2007 5:49 pm

Matt is "da-Man" I would listen to anything he says.

I might not understand the context correctly but it sounds like Matt is saying a 30 small ring with a 26 rear cog will take most people over anything ridable and setting up a triple so that it is not necessary to shift between the front chain rings during a climb is a smart plan.

I don't believe you are going to be able to shift from a 30 small ring to a 52 big ring, nor even install a 34 or smaller chain ring onto a standard crank. The bult pattern holding the rings onto the crank is probably like Shimano's 130mm for standard double cranks. Compact ranks have a 110mm bold patter because smaller chain rings are actually smaller than the 130mm bolt patter. (Matt's would know if the manufacturer of your crank does things differently.) Also, the more teeth between the small and large ring the more flawed down shifting will become. I think the general rule is that you can't down shift flawlessly more than about 16T. (i.e. 34 to 52 is about the max.) A shop that wants to sell more equipment will say even less.

The triple has a 74mm bolt pattern to hold the 30T chain ring. Compact cranks have a 110mm bolt pattern to hold the ~34T chain ring. Standard cranks have a 130mm bolt pattern and probably can't go smaller than a 36T chain ring (if that.)

=- Curt
Last edited by hairycurt on Tue Aug 28, 2007 6:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby krogers on Tue Aug 28, 2007 6:27 pm

Soooo....then in theory I should be able to swap out my 39T for a 34T on my double. I will have to look and see what is out there.
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Postby hairycurt on Tue Aug 28, 2007 6:42 pm

reread my updated post just above your "theory"... I don't think it's possible.
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Postby bsrider on Tue Aug 28, 2007 6:59 pm

Oh my! Sorry, I'm not near as knowledgeable about biking as most with this club, but I have done a lot of research on the triple/double nightmare and felt the need to throw in my "2 cents"..........My opinion--don't go to a triple at all!! Adjustment is more difficult, you have to shift on the front more often, having the "granny gear" will make you lazy, and it will cost you big bucks. Odds are, you'll have to change your shifters, as curt said, and both dérailleurs (you have a short cage and you'll need a long cage rear), as well as the crank set. Big bucks! If you insist on a triple, take Curt's deal. Ultegra kicks ass and would cost you over 800 on eBay for what he's selling........Now, here is what I did. I am a beginner(last Sept) with an allez elite triple. Got tired of adjusting the triple as well as all the noise from cross chaining and finally switched to a compact last month. I'm so happy I could vote for Hillary!! I rarely leave my 50t and I run super smooth and quiet. And here is the kicker. Bought a brand spanking new FSA Gossamer Compact for about 120 and put it on my self in less than 30 minutes. You won't have to change anything else! Ask Steve, he runs the same triple and I'll bet he hasn't used it since Iowa hill in 1999!!........... And there you have it. The opinion of an overweight newbie who loves never shifting on the front!! Good luck!! See you on the road next winter!.....BTW, beware of the total difference between the number of teeth on your large ring and small ring on the front. Beyond 16 can cause issues! :P
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My Triple

Postby steve on Tue Aug 28, 2007 9:21 pm

Brian is correct, I haven't used my 30 tooth ring much at all this entire year. It does come in handy for resting/recovering while climbing long, steep hills. I can unload my legs and lungs for three or four minutes, and shift back to the 42 tooth ring with my heart rate in check.

On the other hand, I used the 30 tooth ring almost exclusively when climbing during the first 2 years I owned the bike because I didn't have the leg strength to push the 42 tooth ring at 75+ rpm on most significant hills.

Going to compact would proabably be the right choice for me right now, except that I like to have 52 teeth on the big ring when racing downhill.

Then again, after Gary blew me off the mountain on the descent down Indian Hill last Saturday, I might as well concede that my bike is not fast downhill anyway and convert it into a pure climbing machine so I can start wearing down Derek, Curtis and the others. Someday, I'm gonna win one those hill climbs!
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Postby hairycurt on Tue Aug 28, 2007 9:25 pm

With a compact crank 34/52 is a real possibility. I often think I should waste the money to get a 52 big ring, but with 50x12 I don't spin out until about 36mph. So far, I haven't found much of a need to pedal above 36mph anyway. When Slip Stream calls to sign me up maybe I'll find a need to power above 36mph.. until then I'll save my money. ;-)

=- Curt
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Postby krogers on Tue Aug 28, 2007 9:39 pm

So I am back to square one....

Steve helped me put the new cassette on...12/27... didn't notice much of a difference with that one... although, don't really have much to compare, as I have never ridden anything as steep as Glenview...it kicked me in the you know what...

Guess I will just wait it out for now...

Thanks for the advice my friends!!
Kim
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Postby DaveyD on Wed Aug 29, 2007 10:30 am

FSA makes just about any configuration inner chainrings you can imagine. 32, 34, 36, 38, 39......and they are inexpensive. Believe the bolt pattern will match but Curt is right, that's something worth checking on. They have specs on all sites that sell FSA stuff.

You should ask Matt at Planet and see what his opinion is. If you want to try the smaller inner chainring, you can probably go down to the 36 for under $50. The 34 may be too small.

Ultimately, the Triple is a great way to get started. I've said many times it's my security blanket, but for whatever reason I don't use the 30T ring much at all any more and I agree that it does make shifting more sloppy and more frequent. There are so many gear options and overlap that it's frankly not worth it.

I will probably convert to a double next year...... well.... the "conversion" i have in mind is a new bike.......
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Postby michelem on Wed Aug 29, 2007 11:09 am

Matt's advice was for my triple (currently have a 50/39/30). He said the 74mm bolt cirle diameter chainring would run about $30 including labor - not bad! I haven't yet gone with that option as I don't use my small chainring very often, but you can believe I was using and very glad to have it on Glenview last Saturday! Like David, the triple is my "security blanket" - I like knowing I have it just in case.
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